Out of Brisbane

Along Quart Pot Creek, upstream from Heritage Park, the wattle trees are flowering.

Stanthorpe wattle

The path winds above the creek and under the railway bridge, across sloping granite to the creek and beyond. On the bank near the narrow footbridge, fairy wrens flit among the bushes.

Along Quart Pot Creek

In Stanthorpe this Spring when we visit, the water is cold. Not tempting. Perhaps in summer families come here to lie in the shallow pools and sunbake on the warm granite.

On this short trip out of Brisbane we are counting wattles. Leaving Stanthorpe, we drive over the New South Wales border to Bald Rock and then back home via the Bruxner Highway and Summerland Way, counting many varieties of wattles in bloom along the way. Green and gold everywhere.

Bald Rock wattle

In April 2023, I planned a fine road trip. It was the right time: the rivers were full but not flooding. The countryside was green. There was no threat of bushfires.

We would follow the inland rivers, from the Warrego at Cunnamulla, down the Darling to Burke and Menindee, to meet the Murray River near its mouth, at Gawler in South Australia. We would then trace the Murray upstream to where it meets the Darling at Wentworth in Victoria, then further east to Balranald, near where the Murray meets the Murrumbidgee. Following the Murrumbidgee to Wagga Wagga, we would then head north to the Lachlan River at Forbes; join the Newell Highway and cross the Macintyre back into Queensland at Goondiwindi.

We’d meet the Condamine River at Warwick, then drive east to Queen Mary Falls where the river drops forty metres down from the ranges. Past towering Mount Superbus, the tallest mountain in south Queensland and the head of the Condamine catchment.

At Queen Mary Falls

In the right season, with plenty of rain and flow through the rivers, the water that plummets over Queen Mary Falls flows down the Darling and eventually ends up in the Southern Ocean at the mouth of the Murray, at the Coorong in South Australia.

What a neat trip that would have been. But life and illness got in the way, and we cancelled just days before we were due to leave.

That left us in Brisbane; but from Brisbane there are many interesting places to go for short trips. That is what we’ve been doing ever since.

In October last year we took a three-day trip to mainly new territory. A night in Dalby and a walk along Myall Creek in the middle of town, then up the Bunya Highway through Bell and Kingaroy to Murgon.

In Murgon there is a small but well set up Fossil Experience Museum called “55 Million Years Ago”. Local businesses, towns and shires seek for something that will encourage travellers to linger and spend. Federal, state and local governments support them. For places as widely spread as Murgon, Winton, Richmond, Hughenden, Eromanga, and even as far north as Chillagoe, Queensland’s finds of fossils and dinosaur bones attract visitors. Families plan holiday road trips to visit dinosaur sites.

From Murgon we drove through Goomeri, stopping at the elegant Wimberley & Co Bookstore, then turned south to spend the night at Highfields, north of Toowoomba.

Wimberley & Co Bookstore, Goomeri

Highfields has a wonderful park – the 4.7-hectare Peacehaven Botanic Park. In 2004 local dairy farmer Stan Kuhl donated the land for a public park to promote peace.

Memorial to Stan Kuhl

The world is as far from peace as ever; but wandering these paths and plantings, watching parrots in the fine old eucalypts, with the Bunya Mountains in the distance, I appreciated old Stan’s intention.

In the heat of February 2024, we took a three-day trip around the Darling Downs and out as far as Goondiwindi. The first night, we stayed in the humble motel behind the Pittsworth Hotel, “Pittsworth’s favourite hotel”. The only hotel in town as far as we can see, but its walls show a collection of photos of the many grand establishments that once existed here, only to succumb to fires, like so many old country hotels.

In the Pittsworth Hotel

Country towns celebrate their sports stars, from Rod Laver, the “Rockhampton Rocket”, to Laura Geitz, medal winner and former captain of the Australian netball team, celebrated in a bronze statue in her hometown of Allora.

In Pittsworth, there is a memorial to Arthur Postle, the “Crimson Flash” – a local professional sprinter who won many Australian championships in the early twentieth century, even defeating a world champion.

On this trip we were exploring parts of the Darling Downs we hadn’t visited before, so I could look for old churches. My g-g-grandfather, James Matthews, was the Church of England Rector of Warwick between 1875 and 1886. In small farming settlements around the Downs, services in those days were held in inns or private houses; and James earned a name as a church builder. Perhaps he had the naming of them too, because at least one is dedicated to St James, and another to St Matthew.

It was hot in Pratten, a tiny town west of Warwick and north of the Cunningham Highway. St James’s Church is a small wooden building on a hilltop, with a simple bell tower beside it.

The town lay still and silent under the sun, until Con pulled the rope and the church bell rang out.

Still, nothing moved.

At the nearby town of Leyburn is another church visited by James Matthews. This attractive building was designed by architect Richard Suter, who designed Jimbour House, among many now heritage-listed buildings.

St Augustine’s Church, Leyburn

Leyburn has a pleasant pub, the Royal Hotel.  Along with the Grand View at Cleveland, it claims to be the oldest continuously licenced hotel in the state.  We were relieved to have our lunch in its air-conditioning.

Leyburn is known for motor racing. In 1949, seventy-five years ago this year, the Australian Grand Prix was held at here, attracting 30,000 visitors. The event has been recreated in the last few years as the Historic Leyburn Sprints, the main feature of a heritage festival with a motoring theme. The Sprints are held on a 137km route through the surrounding area, including Pratten. You wouldn’t have been able to hear the church bell ringing when the Sprint was running through town.

Royal Hotel, Leyburn, during the Historic Sprints festival

From Leyburn we headed to Goondiwindi to visit the Gunsynd Museum situated in the town’s elegant art deco council chambers. Another regional sporting hero, loved by Con.

Goondiwindi Council Chambers
In the Gunsynd Museum

Last May, for my birthday, we spent three nights on Minjerribah North Stradbroke Island. This place is a treasure; and so close to Brisbane. White sand beaches, clear water, gorgeous freshwater lakes and swamps (so fresh that Island water is pumped to the other Bay islands and the mainland); birdlife, headland views, and small town life, as well as a strong Indigenous cultural presence.

Sunset at Amity Point, Stradbroke Island

At the Point Lookout Hotel, perched above Cylinder Beach, I ate my birthday dinner accompanied by a beach stone-curlew that wandered among the terrace diners, searching for scraps with its huge, spooky eyes.

Straddie curlew

I’ve seen stone-curlews’ motionless forms and heard their haunting night-time cries from the suburbs of Brisbane to the tropics. Con tells me that on his first night at boarding school in Cairns he heard them and thought someone was being murdered.

We’ve made other out of town trips since our big trip was cancelled. Short trips to Grafton, Murwillumbah, Maryborough, Coolum, Toowoomba and Warwick.

Attractive ceramic art work at Coolum

We also went to Currumbin to enjoy the Swell Sculpture Festival.

Us reflected, at Currumbin Swell

What next? Out to Glenmorgan, to pay a return visit to the Myall Park Botanic Garden? The wattles and wildflowers out there would be beautiful in Spring.

And maybe, next April, we’ll set off on that fine rivers road trip. Unless the rivers are flooding, or the countryside is burning…

Main photo: Cylinder Beach, Minjerribah Stradbroke Island

Muddy Water

Lately, vast areas of Queensland have been covered in brown water. The dust from our recent western trip is still on our tyres, but many of the roads we drove on are now cut by floods. The Cunningham Highway and the border rivers areas went under last week: Warwick, Stanthorpe, Texas, Yelarbon. Inglewood was inundated and 800 people, the entire population, were evacuated in the middle of the night.

Inglewood school yard under floodwater abc.net.au

It’s hot and sunny in all these areas today, and people are cleaning up that stinking mud.

Helping to clean up the Inglewood Spar Supermarket abc.net.au

Goondiwindi waited anxiously for the flood to reach them.

Goondiwindi’s iconic Gunsynd statue ready for the flood goondiwindiargus.com.au

The water in the Macintyre River rose overnight, and the question was, as always: will the levee bank keep the water out of town? It did, but was a near thing. Many outlying houses and farms went under.

Between Texas and Goondiwindi abc.net.au

Two months ago we were in Winton, and the entire countryside was in drought. Since then, they’ve had around 100mm of rain. The dry desert jump-up we drove up to in September, the location for the Australian Age of Dinosaurs Museum, had waterfalls cascading down its cliffs two weeks ago.

Age of Dinosaurs Museum, Winton, after heavy rain Experience Outback Queensland

If your peaches and apricots are ready to pick, or your beautiful wheat crop due for harvest, these storms and flooding rains have been a disaster; but still, to have the rivers and farm dams overflowing with brown water after so long a drought is a miracle.

In the hilly, rainforest country of coastal Queensland, brown flood water is soon gone from rivers and creeks and they return to their normal clear and beautiful condition.

Skipping stones in the clear water at Northbrook Gorge, in the hills near Mount Glorious, an hour’s drive from Brisbane

In the rolling downs and flat country that makes up most of the state, the black soil country and red dirt country, the creeks and rivers rarely run clear; but these muddy western rivers and creeks are clean of pollution and rich with life. Locals and travellers love to camp on their banks to fish and swim.

In Longreach, tourist boats explore the Thomson River; and Goondiwindi has a 210ha Water Park, a stretch of creek designated for power boats, water-skiing and swimming. Not this week though.

After leaving Winton in early October, we drove south into the Channel Country and spent the night at Windorah, near Cooper Creek.

On the Cooper south west of Windorah – the Channel Country scottbridle.com

In the garden of the small but interesting local museum sits the flood boat that was used over many years on the intricate channels of the Channel Country, carrying supplies to the marooned and rescuing people, and their animals too.

The Windorah flood boat

Leaving Windorah, we headed down the quiet Kyabra Creek Road, a recently sealed short cut leading to the tiny town of Eromanga. Eromanga is growing famous for the massive dinosaur fossils discovered in the area, and for its Natural History Museum, where they are preserved and assessed. Dinosaur tourism provides a financial boost to much of western Queensland.

We met no traffic along the way, saw no sign of habitation, until we reached Kyabra Creek. There, we were startled to come across a large encampment of caravans, tents and four-wheel drive vehicles along the banks of a wide, milk coffee coloured lagoon.

Kyabra Creek – the Eromanga Mates Reunion

Children were swimming in the muddy water, and along the banks there were fishing rods, kayaks and canoes. Teenagers zoomed around on trail bikes. Such freedom! It was the opposite to a neat, regimented coastal holiday park experience.

And the water was the opposite to the clear water of a Wet Tropics creek where you can look straight through sparkling water and count the stones on the bottom.

The Boulders, Babinda, Far North Queensland

An hour later, lunching on BLTs on the verandah of the old Royal Hotel (better known as the Eromanga Pub) we learned what was happening out on Kyabra Creek.

Lunch on the verandah at the Eromanga Pub

It was the Eromanga Mates Reunion. All those people had come, some from far away, for a four-day get-together to relive their childhood and meet up with other ex-locals. They have a Facebook page that shows how much fun they had that weekend, on the banks of the brown, muddy lagoon.

Two days later, on a Sunday morning in Charleville, we parked near a row of heavily-laden four-wheel drives, stopped at the bakery, with adults checking their loads and standing around talking while kids played chasey on the footpath. I think they’d been to the Eromanga Reunion, and they were on their way back to the coast in time for the new school term.

Bakery stop, Charleville

Many years ago, a little cousin of mine slipped into a brown western creek and drowned before anyone could find her, and so they scare me a bit. But this month there will be little western Queensland children playing in puddles for the first time in their lives; and their big brothers and sisters will be bomb-diving into muddy farm dams that haven’t seen water for years.

Lovely.

Relaxing at Kyabra Creek Matthew Coleman

Main image: Kyabra Creek sunset Thomas Wilkinson

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