Beach Houses

“Why don’t we have a beach house?” Lizzie wants to know. “Our families used to have beach houses. Currumbin, Maroochydore, Alexandra Headland, Yeppoon. Where did they all go?”

That happens with real estate. Life changes and financial situations get in the way.

“If only they’d held on to that house/that piece of land – it would be worth millions now,” we say.

Queensland has 13,347 kms of coastline, including its 1,955 islands, and 715 recorded beaches. (ozbeaches.com.au)

Over 70% of the population lives within twenty kilometres of the coast.

We go to the beach a lot.

This said, much of the coastline is lined with mangroves and mud, isolated, and infested with crocodiles and stingers, and because it is sheltered by the Great Barrier Reef and the islands has no surf. Great for fishing; not so great for swimming.

These days, owning a house near any actual sandy surf beach along the Queensland coast, from Yeppoon to the New South Wales border, is for the wealthy.

Last century, development along the coast was nothing like it is today. My mother’s father, Fred, was manager of a sheep station outside Barcaldine, 620 kms to the west, and he bought a house at Yeppoon. According to my aunt, who remembered it from her early childhood, it was a traditional timber house on the side of the hill, looking out over the sea, with a steep path down to the beach.

Like many Central Western Queenslanders, my mother’s family regularly holidayed at Yeppoon and nearby Emu Park. They took the train from Barcaldine, changing trains at Rockhampton and continuing down to the coast. Today, the railway line to Yeppoon has gone.  

Emu Park, 1910s. My grandmother Phyl at the back, with her step-mother and sister

Now Yeppoon is a modern beach resort town, with spectacular houses and apartments listed on Airbnb; many of them, no doubt, occupied still by holiday makers from the Central West. Fred’s old family house would have been demolished years ago.

Fred and Phyl ended their lives back at the seaside, with a house on the hill at Currumbin Beach: a nice house with a three-bedroom flat under it for visiting family, and a fine view down to the sea and Elephant Rock, where we used to play and climb.

My grandparents’ Currumbin house, now gone

When Fred and Phyl died, the house was sold and demolished. Townhouses were built on the block.

Our earliest family beach house was built in the early 1900s, at Bribie Island, on the Pumicestone Passage side (now known as Bongaree), not far from where John Oxley had moored his small ship just eighty years earlier, and Matthew Flinders before him. The family would travel there on the excursion boat “Koopa”.

My great-grandparents’ house at Bribie Island, early 1900s

The house was built by my father’s grandparents, who loved boats and the seaside, and spent time sailing on Moreton Bay.

That family sailing boat on Moreton Bay

The old man, my great-grandfather, was descended from a ship’s pilot from Kent.

These things go down the generations. Maybe that’s where Lizzie’s love of the water comes from.

Lizzie loving the water at Agnes Water

My father’s parents had a north-facing house on Alexandra Headland from the 1920s or earlier, when the Headland was almost bare of buildings but covered in coastal scrub.

The Coast House, Alexandra Headland, around 1920s

The Alexandra Headland house, known to the family as the Coast House, had timber shutters propped out by struts instead of windows, a dunny out the back and a cold shower under the tank stand, and a view along the beaches as far as Noosa Heads. I remember lying in bed in the little verandah room, with a row of shells on the windowsill and the sound of waves crashing on the rocks below. Lizzie would have loved it.

With my cousins at Alexandra Headland, early 1950s

As a teenager my father was a member of the Alexandra Headland Surf Club, even leading the club team at surf carnivals. Many family get-togethers happened on that beach, up until my grandmother died in the 1970s and the house was sold. An ugly brick apartment block occupies the site now.

We still visited Alex for our holidays though, camping in the Caravan Park.

At Alexandra Headlands Caravan Park in the early 1960s. My mother packing up the tent

In the 1950s my parents bought an old timber house on a dirt road running along the Maroochy River. It had two bedrooms and a sleepout, an enclosed verandah, and a kitchen with an ice chest. Dad concreted under the house and installed a cold shower down there. The dunny in the back yard was sheltered from view by an enormous purple bougainvillea, and there were possums in the ceiling. We called that house Toad Hall, and we loved it.

Toad Hall, on Maroochy River, with my brothers in the old boat. My mother in the water

We swam in the river, jumped off the jetty, and went sailing in our new boat.

My mother made the sails, and dyed them red, to go with the popular song: “Red sails in the sunset, way out on the sea, please carry my loved one home safely to me…”

After working all week, my father would complain about having to spend half of Saturday mowing the lawn at Toad Hall. That’s the downside of owning a beach house: the maintenance.

Toad Hall was sold when we moved to Brisbane and it survived for many years on Bradman Avenue before progress came along and the house was demolished. Apartments were built on the site.

One Christmas I went searching for a family holiday house to rent, on the coast, in the southeast corner, and I had to go as far north as Agnes Water before I could find one that would fit us all. It  was a couple of blocks back from the beach, with “ocean glimpses” from its verandah.

In the resort towns on the Sunshine and Gold Coasts, there are fewer waterside holiday houses now. It’s nearly all apartments.

Where would Lizzie have to go, to buy a beach house with ocean or water views?

And what would it cost?

Lizzie at Maroochydore Beach

Searching for Matthew Flinders

I’m always intrigued by place names and how they came about. Queensland places have had their names and their stories for tens of thousands of years; but when Europeans arrived, they knew nothing of ancient local cultures. For their maps and charts, they named places after important people and sponsors of their voyages, or their friends; their hometowns; dangers, accidents and incidents; places of home.

James Cook was the first to sail up the east coast. Among many other places, he named Queensland’s Glasshouse Mountains.

Matthew Flinders was next. He named Skirmish Point, at the southern tip of Bribie Island, because it was here after some trading of articles that the locals, laughing, tried to steal his hat, then threw a spear when the visitors were rowing away. That’s when the muskets came out, and locals were wounded.

Skirmish Point, Bribie Island

Flinders, on his extended mapping voyages along the coasts of Australia, had several positive encounters with locals, but when it came to a disagreement, conflicts were decided in the usual British military way, with guns; and that is what happened at Skirmish Point.

Bungaree, or Bongaree, after whom a suburb of Bribie Island is named, was a member of the Garigal clan of the Broken Bay people from north of Sydney, and he was recruited by Flinders for the voyage in the Norfolk, as well as the later Investigator voyage and others. Bungaree was respected as a person, and as an interpreter and diplomat, making positive contact with local people even though they mostly spoke different languages. Often, these were the first encounters between Europeans and Indigenous Australians.

“Bungaree”, by Augustus Earle australian.museum

This has been a Flinders year for me. In May, I visited the charming holiday town of Victor Harbor, in South Australia.

Victor Harbor sits on the shore of Encounter Bay, named by Flinders, near where in April 1802, as commander of HMS Investigator, Flinders met up with the French scientific and mapping expedition under Nicholas Baudin, commanding Le Géographe and Naturaliste.

Model of Flinders’ encounter with Nicholas Baudin’s expedition at Encounter Bay National Trust Museum, Victor Harbor
Encounter Bay, South Australia

The Investigator expedition, under Flinders, had been mounted by the British government for the “complete examination and survey” of the coast of New Holland, mainly to make sure the French didn’t lay claim to it, so this meeting was a tricky one, although friendly.

The National Trust Museum at Victor Harbor tells the story.

Flinders had already mapped the southern coast, across the Great Australian Bight, past Kangaroo Island and Port Lincoln and many other points all named by him. He had climbed a mountain in what were later named the Flinders Ranges. Australia itself was named by Matthew Flinders, and it’s said that his map of the continent was still being used until the mid-twentieth century.

During the arduous voyage in the leaky, unfit Investigator, ultimately circumnavigating Australia, Flinders named places in what would become Queensland. He named Bowen, and in exploring the Gulf of Carpentaria, named Mornington, Bentink and Sweers Islands.

It was Flinders who named the Great Barrier Reef(s).

In 1799, three years earlier, Flinders had been commissioned to sail north from Sydney looking for rivers – potential harbours and ways to reach the unknown inland. Sailing through Moreton Bay in the tiny HMS Norfolk, he mapped and named several Moreton Bay islands and Red Cliff Point.

Model of HMS Norfolk Bribie Island Seaside Museum

The mangroves and sandbars of Moreton Bay hid from him the Logan, Brisbane and Pine Rivers, but he gave Pumicestone Passage its name, calling it, hopefully, Pumicestone River.

Anchored off the southern end of Bribie, Flinders went seeking a lookout point, heading for the nearby Glasshouse Mountains.

Flinders anchored near this spot, off the southern end of Pumicestone Passage

From near today’s Donnybrook, with Bungaree and two seamen, Flinders reached Beerburrum and climbed it. Tibrogargan, a little to the north, was too difficult, and the group camped nearby beside Tibrogargan Creek.

The Glasshouse Mountains, as seen from Wild Horse Mountain. Beerburrum on the left, Beerburrum the high mountain second from the right

There is now a cairn commemorating the expedition in the Matthew Flinders Park Rest Area near their campsite.

Cairn in the Matthew Flinders Park Rest Area

In August 1803, Flinders left Sydney for England in the Porpoise, to arrange a better ship for survey work. 450 kilometres off Keppel Bay (Emu Park) the Porpoise and companion ship the Cato were wrecked on the reef still known as Wreck Reef. The survivors were marooned on a sandbank, including Flinders and his cat.

Trim, the cat, had been born on HMS Reliance in 1799, during its voyage to Sydney with Flinders as master’s mate. Trim and Flinders were companions during their voyages on the Norfolk, the Investigator, the Porpoise and the Cumberland. Wherever you find a statue of Matthew Flinders, his cat will be with him.

My favourite statue of Matthew Flinders and Trim, at Euston Station AP Photo
Matthew Flinders statue outside the Mitchell Library Sydney. Trim stands on the window ledge behind him

Flinders wrote charmingly about Trim, his account published in the little volume “Trim”, which I bought at Bribie Island Seaside Museum.

Stuck on a sandbank and expecting no rescue, Flinders with a crew of thirteen set off in a cutter to row and sail the 1100 kilometres back to Sydney for help. In less than two weeks they arrived there, and headed back in the small, barely seaworthy Cumberland, with two other ships, to rescue the stranded men, and the cat, from the sandbank.

Determined to get back to England and arrange his ongoing explorations, after the rescue of the marooned crew, most of whom returned to Sydney, Flinders headed north and west in the Cumberland, eventually landing for repairs at the French colony of Mauritius, not knowing that the French-British wars had broken out again. He was taken prisoner, and spent six and a half miserable years there before being allowed to return home.

It was on Mauritius that Trim was lost.

This long imprisonment contributed to Matthew Flinders’ death at the age of forty, in July 1814. “A Voyage to Terra Australis” the book that summarised his life’s work, was published the day before he died.

In the splendid O’Connell’s Bookshop in Adelaide I got to see a valuable copy of this work, the result of so much adventure, pain and determination.

In O’Connell’s Bookshop, Adelaide, being shown a copy of Flinders’ “A Voyage to Terra Australis”

Matthew Flinders was buried in a London church graveyard, but the site was redeveloped in later years and his grave was lost.  In 2019, archaeologists undertook a survey of the old graveyard, near Euston Station, prior to construction of a new branch of the London Underground, and found the lead breastplate which marked his grave.

It was exciting news. The “Matthew Flinders Bring Him Home” group began to work towards his reburial in his hometown of Donington, Lincolnshire.

In July 2024, 210 years after his death and with full military honours,  Matthew Flinders was laid to rest in the Church of St Mary of the Holy Rood, Donington. As well as descendants of the Flinders family, two descendants of Bungaree were at the ceremony.

Matthew Flinders gravestone in the Church of St Mary and the Sacred Rood, Donington, UK, includes a mao of Austrlia and a picture of Trim Photo: “Matthew Flinders Bring Him Home” Group
Shad Tyler and Laurie Binison, descendants of Bungaree, at Matthew Flinders reburial Photo: pittwateronlinenews.com

The name of Flinders now appears all over Australia, including on major streets in both Melbourne and Townsville, and on Flinders Parade, Sandgate, where my great-grandparents lived a hundred years after the little Norfolk sailed by on its way up the bay.

I’ve walked the track to the top of Beerburrum, and climbed Tibrogargan (the western, easier side); and I’ve also been to the top of a peak which can be seen to the south-west from many of Brisbane’s high points: Flinders Peak. It was a scramble in places, but worth it for the view.

The writer on Flinders Peak

In 1799 Flinders spotted the peak from the sea and named it “High Peak”. When John Oxley sailed this way twenty-five years later, searching for a suitable place to build the convict settlement that would later become Brisbane, he renamed it Flinders Peak.

Of course, like all of these places, it already had a name: Booroong’pah. Like all of these places, it already had its own long-established stories.

The Matthew Flinders story is just another story of Australia, and of Queensland; but it will always be a story both inspirational and moving.

About Matthew Flinders

  • “Flinders: The life, loves and voyages of the man who put Australia on the map”, Grantlee Kieza, 2023. Excellent biography, based on primary sources
  • “My Love Must Wait”, Ernestine Hill, 1941, my first introduction to the story Of Matthew Flinders
  • “A Biographical Tribute to the Memory of Trim”, Matthew Flinders, published 1977, from the archives of the National Maritime Museum, Greenwich
  • “In the Footsteps of Flinders: Memorial to great navigator unveiled,” article by Clem Lack for Royal Historical Society of Queensland, 1963, describing Flinders’ expedition to  Beerburrum.
  • “Matthew Flinders’ Cat”, Bryce Courtney, 2002. A novel of Sydney, with Trim’s story vividly told.

Main picture: Portrait of Captain Matthew Flinders, RN, 1774-1814. Toussaint Antoine de Chazal de Chamerel. 1806-07, Mauritius Art Gallery of South Australia

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